#LoveSA: Why you don`t need to spend those precious rands overseas

Source: City Press, 03/12/2017

Kate Turkington does country style in luxury in Dullstroom; battles a
gale in Wakkerstroom, one of the world’s best birding spots; and
catches a tiger fish on Jozini Dam - in one week.
Mpumalanga may be one of our smallest provinces, but it’s packed with
beauty and things to do. And you don’t need lots of time, foreign
exchange or finicky visas to travel to some of its amazingly diverse
destinations.
Dullstroom in the Mpumalanga highlands is South Africa’s top trout
fly-fishing area. A leisurely three-and-a-half-hour drive from
Johannesburg will carry you up into misty mountains past sparkling
lakes and green fields dotted with fat cows and munching sheep.
A steep paved road of hairpin bends lined with ancient trees finally
brings you to the gates of one of the province’s most plush
properties, Walkersons Hotel & Spa.
Stay in one of the comfortable suites at the main hotel or take your
family off to a remote self-catering cottage that overlooks a river
and a waterfall, where the real world is a million miles away. If
you’re not a fisherman, now’s your chance to try it. Children,
beginners and experts are all welcome, and there’s always someone
around to give you a helping hand.
Come hungry because the food is excellent. A rare steak, stripped
pork, grilled trout, tempting veggie dishes and luscious desserts are
served up with fine wine every evening in the comfortable restaurant
themed in Scottish country house style. If you’re too tired and want
some privacy, order a gourmet burger, a cheese or Highland platter, or
panko prawns from room service.
There are walks and trails winding between freshwater dams and along
rivers for every level of fitness, and even the 1.8km trail to the top
of the mountain is paved most of the way.
You can also go horse riding, mountain biking, putter along in a golf
cart or go to gym. The Highlands Gate Golf Course designed by Ernie
Els is only a few fairways away. When the exercise is over, spoil
yourself and have an indulgent treatment at the friendly spa.
From Walkersons to Wakkerstroom, one of the world’s top birding spots
and headquarters of BirdLife SA on the southern border of Mpumalanga
and KwaZulu-Natal. It doesn’t look like a long drive on the map �`
unless you get lost, which my companion Coral and I did. After
meandering for miles among seemingly interminable coalfields and
country roads scattered with deep potholes, we arrived in the middle
of a downpour at this historic, beautiful village in the
internationally renowned Wakkerstroom Wetland in the Grassland
Biosphere Reserve.
Birders come from all over the world to spot many of the village’s
globally threatened bird species, such as the African marsh harrier,
the grey crowned crane and the yellow-breasted pipit. BirdLife SA runs
an important conservation centre here, and trains and employs local
people.
Whether you’re a beginner birder or a twitcher, be sure to use the
services of one of the knowledgeable community bird guides. On a
previous visit, Lucky Ngwenya showed me birds I had only dreamt about.
There was an excited party of Europeans staying with us at Wetlands
Country House & Sheds, one of the best B&Bs I have visited anywhere in
South Africa. Rita and Phil, who own and run it, have repeat guests
from all over the world who are thrilled not only by the surrounding
birdlife but also by the luxurious accommodation, hearty country
breakfasts, library, sitting room and more than 280 different types of
roses.
Our determined fellow guests left at 4am in driving rain to spot the
elusive red-chested flufftail. We braved two of the hides in a gale,
but the birds had more sense than us and kept their beaks down.
But another exciting find was still to come. On our second evening, we
dined at The Bistro, a tiny, quirky restaurant in the middle of the
village. The fusion food was superb, as was the fabulous collection of
African art sponsored by Chef Lizzie and partner Paul.
On display were the thrones created by Sicelo Ziqubu, winner of the
Spier Contemporary Art Award and beneficiary of the National Arts
Council travelling exhibition grant. Ziqubu uses recycled media and
his thrones are a mixed marvel of colour, texture, fantasy, mythology
and symbolism. You can also sit in them. The work of other local
artists adorns the walls and shelves, including bird carvings made of
alien wood by artist Muzi Makhubu.
Wakkerstroom brims with other things to do and see. Take historic
walks where the Brits and Boers battled; visit the historic church and
cemetery; try your wheels on 4x4 trails; or walk across the narrow
1893 Paul Kruger Bridge, which is particularly interesting because the
first black Zionist baptisms in South Africa took place there on May
24 1904.
On the road again ... now to Shayamanzi Houseboat on Jozini Dam in
KwaZulu-Natal, the only place in South Africa where you can catch a
tiger fish. You’ll stay on a luxurious houseboat that drifts along the
shores of the Pongola Game Reserve, which was established in 1894.
Watch hippos, elephants, rhinos and lots of plains game as you dangle
your rod over the side of the small launch that takes you into the
middle of the dam.
One of my companions very politely said: “I think you’ve got an
enquiry on your line,” and my fishing rod suddenly bent at a 90-degree
angle. After a fierce fight, I pulled in a 2.2kg tiger fish. Minutes
later, our houseboat captain, Alan Ndlovu, who has been with
Shayamanzi for more than 10 years, pulled in one weighing 3.8kg.
Don’t spend those precious rands on overseas destinations when there
are so many (much more affordable) places to explore at home.