Istanbul is as alluring as ever... and SA travellers can get free visas and hotel stays

Source: News24, 12/09/2023

• Istanbul is still one of the world`s most alluring cities for global travellers.
• And for South Africans, it`s one of the cheapest and easiest to visit.
• Türkiye issues e-visas immediately at no cost.
• And Turkish Airlines, which flies direct to South Africa seven days per week, offers free overnight hotel stays or day tours to those on layovers in Istanbul.
• Here`s what to see and do - and how to capitalise on a free extended layover in Istanbul.
`If the world were a single country,` Ibrahim says as we gather speed along the western edge of the Bosphorus Strait, `then Istanbul would be its capital`.
It`s 16:00 on a Thursday, and the temperature is still hovering somewhere around 30 degrees. The afternoon sunlight reflects off the floor-to-ceiling windows of the waterside stone palaces, their designs influenced by the world`s most powerful empires, and onto the small turquoise waves cresting around us.
Nearby, commuter ferries, tourist boats, and, further away, the odd heavily laden cargo ships go about their afternoon business in the broad channel that famously forms the dividing line between Europe and Asia.
Between the mansions and humbler river-side homes, elderly men and women in ill-fitting swimsuits seek refuge from the heat and dip in and out of the river using vertical metal stairs reaching down the embankments. Fisherman alongside them cast silklike threads from the shores, their lines, floating like spiderwebs in the breeze, catching the sun`s last rays.
Behind the ancient palaces, fortresses, and mosques lining the river are more recent side-by-side apartment blocks that stretch up the steep banks, the density now required to house some of the city`s constant expansion soon to surpass 16 million residents.
But hills further out are topped with green peaks into which patriots have planted giant Turkish flags, the biggest of which have the combined area of four tennis courts. Despite their size, they flap effortlessly in the lightest breeze in what, from water level, looks almost like slow motion.
Time evaporates in the afternoon heat, and shortly after reaching Bosphorus Bridge, on which traffic, tiny from below, scuttles silently between the two continents, the captain swings us around to return to the river-side port.
As we approach Istanbul`s historical peninsula, someone on the boat feels it necessary to fire up a giant knee-high Bluetooth speaker and play tinny pop, just as the centuries-old minarets of the Blue Mosque, and the Hagia Sophia, materialise out of the haze.
Today, the comment about Istanbul being the world`s capital has become a neat cliche used widely in tourism campaigns and by guides like Ibrahim to define a city that, from before the time Napoleon allegedly coined it, has resisted neat classification.
Istanbul is a city morphed by sultans, rulers, and presidents. It has retained centuries of history in its mosques, churches, synagogues, bazaars, palaces, quiet neighbourhoods, and bustling street. And yet it continues to reinvent itself with fine dining restaurants, vibrant rooftop bars, colourful Instagram-friendly neighbourhoods, and the odd unlikely pop tune seeping out from an on-board speaker to taint the view of some of the world`s most dramatic religious buildings.
It`s a melting pot of cultures, and almost always overflowing with tourists, both new and returning. And of course, there`s no one way to explore the city. Those who`ve been before will likely tell you it`s one best done slowly, led by your stomach and appetite for views and history, and, preferably, neighbourhood by neighbourhood. And first-time visitors, like those on a layover tour or overnight stay, will probably want to visit the famous landmarks.
Here are a few sights to include on a trip to Istanbul.
The Bosphorus
Central to any Istanbul trip is travel on the city`s liquid heart, the Bosphorus.
There are plenty of tourist-centric options, from small private charters to large impersonal tour boats and all-inclusive dinner and dinner-dance cruises. These will offer historical context to the buildings you float past or some light entertainment and save you from navigating the public transit system alone.
But the cheapest and most authentic way to experience the giant strait is by going it alone on a public ferry. Tickets are available at numerous ports, and with a bit of pre-planning and for surprisingly few Turkish liras, they can get to the Black Sea and back.
Istiklal Caddesi
Istiklal Caddesi is a vibrant pedestrianised street with classic trams and plenty of modern shopping.
For a slow introduction to a modern and vibrant Istanbul, spend the morning wandering Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrianised street once known as the Grand Avenue of Pera. Today, it`s mostly a shopping destination famous for its classic trams. Its fluttering flags, ice cream vendors, book shops, and quiet courtyard cafes make a good soft landing into the bustling modern part of the city.
Galata Tower
The 360-degree view from Galata Tower is spectacular, and is a great way to put the city into perspective.
Istiklal Caddesi pairs well with a trip up Galata Tower, one of the city`s iconic buildings originally built as a watchtower. It`s since seen several refurbishments and is now a museum - and its 66-metre vantage point will give you a great perspective of the city you`re about to explore.
Galata Bridge
A walk across Galata Bridge delivers plenty of amazing photo opportunities.
On the surface, there`s nothing particularly remarkable about this functional bridge spanning the Golden Horn. But a gentle stroll across offers a fascinating insight into one aspect of Istanbul life. At times chaotic and overrun by tourists, many fishermen have taken up spaces here for decades where they drop lines into the waters below. There are few destinations in the city like it for a classic Istanbul photograph.
Topkapi Palace
First-time visitors to Istanbul will feel the pull of the city`s historical heart. Start your day early to beat the crowds at Topkapi Palace, the oldest of its kind in the world.
The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia
Two of Istanbul, or, really, the world`s most famous buildings, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, are within walking distance of Topkapi Palace. Both mosques are open to the public, spectacular, and free to visit outside of prayer times. But if possible, it`s best to avoid Fridays when they`ll likely be busier than normal. Visitors must dress with appropriate coverings, which are also available at entrances on loan or for a fee.
Basilica Cistern
Also nearby is the Basilica Cistern, the largest of several underground cisterns that once supplied the city with water. Today, it`s a museum equally fascinating for its historical importance as it is reflective photo opportunities.
Çiragan Palace Kempinski

Çiragan Palace Kempinski is one of the city`s most opulent hotels, with views of the Bosphorus.
Çiragan Palace Kempinski is a lavish 5-star hotel, once an Ottoman imperial palace, right on the Bosphorus. Ideally, you`d plan to overnight there and add your name to the list of other luminaries, like Kobe Bryant and Oprah Winfrey, who`ve taken in the waterside views from a sweeping balcony. But even if your bank balance doesn`t stretch quite that far, a classic Turkish breakfast on the terrace is a fantastic way to soak up the most opulent slice of Bosphorus life.
Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is a heaving, chaotic maze of tunnels winding their way around over 4 000 stores bulging at the seams with textiles, ceramics, trinkets, accessories, and delicacies. It`s an assault on the senses that may have you relieved to reach the other end, but one that`s quintessential Istanbul.
Even if you`re not one for crowds and shopping, step out of the steady stream of pedestrians and people watch for a few minutes - stall owners, tea delivery men, window shoppers, and wide-eyed tourists brush shoulders in one of the world`s oldest covered markets.
Balat
Balat may be one of the older neighbourhoods in Istanbul, but it`s one of its most vibrant. Colourful houses, quirky coffee shops, ice cream vendors, unique stores, and some admittedly Instagram-friendly touches like the colourful stairs make this a great area to wander around if only to soak up some of its charm.
Rooftop dining or drinking
Marcello, the rooftop restaurant atop the Stay Boulevard Nisantasi, offers incredible views, cocktails, and fine dining Italian cuisine.

One of the often overlooked delights of Istanbul is its numerous rooftop bars and restaurants. Most locals have their favourites, and each neighbourhood usually has its own. They`re best visited an hour before sunset to take in the full glory of the city at dusk.
If you go
Turkiye Visas applications are free, online, and ready in minutes for South Africans.
Turkish Airlines operates seven daily direct flights out of Johannesburg and six out of Cape Town. Conveniently, they arrive early in the morning - perfect for taking advantage of a day in the city after a strong Turkish coffee. Or three.
Passengers flying Turkish Airlines with layovers in Istanbul may also be eligible for free stays or tours.
The Stopover in Istanbul programme allows Turkish Airlines passengers connecting via Istanbul Airport to claim free accommodation in partner hotels.
And those just stopping over for a few hours can take advantage of Touristanbul. This layover service includes a free tour of the city for all international transfer Turkish Airlines passengers who fly through Istanbul with a 6 to 24-hour layover time.